Surkanda Devi

Where it is

Roughly 9 km from Dhanaulti and 35 km from Mussoorie, and the road between the two passes straight through Suwakholi. From our gate you are already on the way, which is the main practical reason to stay on this stretch rather than in Mussoorie.

Getting to the top

You drive as far as Kaddukhal and climb the last part. It is about two to two and a half kilometres, roughly half an hour at a steady pace, on a paved path through deodar. A real climb, but not a technical one — ordinary shoes are fine in dry weather.

If the walk is not for you, there is a ropeway: around 500 metres, ten to fifteen minutes to the top. It is the sensible choice with small children, or if the weather has turned.

Go early. This is the whole trick.

The Himalayan skyline is what makes the trip, and it is usually gone by midday — cloud builds up the valley through the morning and closes the view. Leave us at first light and you will be at the summit while it is still clear. People who go after lunch see a temple in fog and wonder what the fuss was about.

When it is busy

It fills up during Navratri in October and Ganga Dussehra in June, when it becomes a pilgrimage rather than a viewpoint. Wonderful if that is what you came for, and worth avoiding if it is not. Weekday mornings outside those two windows, you may have it almost to yourself.

What to take

• Something warm. The summit is bare and the wind does not stop, even in June.
• Water. There are stalls at Kaddukhal but not on the path.
• Shoes with some grip if it has rained — the paving gets slick.
• Cash for the ropeway and the stalls.

Making a morning of it

Most of our guests drive up at dawn, do the climb, and are back on the terrace for a late breakfast by ten. If you want that, tell us the night before and the kitchen will be ready when you get in — the cafe opens early enough for it.